Nestled in the heart of São Miguel Island in the Azores archipelago lies a natural wonder that seems plucked from a fairytale—Sete Cidades. Here, two magnificent lakes rest side by side in a volcanic crater, one gleaming with emerald splendor, the other radiating azure brilliance. This geological marvel has captivated travelers for centuries, drawing them into its mystical embrace with promises of otherworldly beauty and legendary tales. As you stand at the Vista do Rei viewpoint, gazing down at this chromatic spectacle, you’ll understand why Sete Cidades isn’t merely a destination but a transcendent experience that speaks to something primordial in the human spirit.

Where Twin Lakes Shimmer in Jewel-Toned Hues

The twin lakes of Sete Cidades present one of nature’s most mesmerizing optical illusions—two bodies of water, separated by a narrow bridge, displaying distinctly different colors that shimmer and shift with the changing light. Lagoa Verde (Green Lake) reflects the surrounding vegetation in its waters, creating a deep emerald hue that evokes the lushness of the Azorean landscape. Its twin, Lagoa Azul (Blue Lake), captures the vast expanse of the sky, resulting in a breathtaking azure shade that seems to hold pieces of the heavens within its depths. Together, they create a living painting that changes subtly throughout the day as clouds dance across the sun and winds ripple across their surfaces.

Local legend weaves a romantic tale around these chromatic twins—a forbidden love between a princess with eyes the color of the blue lake and a shepherd with eyes green as the verdant hills. When their love was denied, their tears of sorrow formed these two bodies of water, forever connected yet distinctly individual, much like the lovers themselves. While science explains the different colors through varying depths, algae concentrations, and light reflections, visitors often find the poetic explanation more fitting for a place that feels imbued with such palpable magic and emotional resonance.

The visual spectacle is best appreciated from several vantage points that surround the caldera. The King’s View (Vista do Rei) offers the most famous panorama, where the full majesty of the twin lakes unfolds before you like a three-dimensional postcard. More adventurous souls might hike along the crater rim, where each turn in the path reveals new perspectives on this color-shifting marvel. Photographers flock here at dawn and dusk, when the lakes take on golden and purple tinges that add yet another dimension to their already remarkable palette, creating images that seem almost too perfect to be real.

A Volcanic Paradise of Emerald and Azure Bliss

The geological history of Sete Cidades tells a story of magnificent destruction and rebirth. Approximately 22,000 years ago, a massive volcanic eruption collapsed inward, forming the 5-kilometer-wide caldera that cradles the lakes today. What was once a scene of primordial fury has transformed into a sanctuary of tranquility—a testament to nature’s ability to heal and create beauty from chaos. The volcanic soil surrounding the lakes nurtures a vibrant ecosystem, where endemic Azorean plants thrive in a microclimate protected by the crater walls, creating a verdant paradise that perfectly complements the jewel-toned waters.

Life around Sete Cidades moves at a pace dictated by nature rather than human schedules. The charming white-washed village that shares its name with the lakes sits at the base of the caldera, its church spire punctuating the landscape like an exclamation point. Here, local farmers tend to fertile fields, and fishermen occasionally cast lines into the lakes’ waters. Hydrangeas—the iconic flowers of the Azores—line the roads and hillsides in summer months, adding bursts of blue, purple, and pink to the already colorful panorama. This harmonious coexistence of human and natural elements creates a sense of timelessness that washes away the stresses of modern life.

Adventure awaits those willing to descend from the viewpoints into the heart of the crater. Kayaking across the lakes offers an entirely different perspective, where the waters’ colors seem even more vivid up close. Cycling along the shoreline paths provides a gentle way to circumnavigate these natural gems, while hiking trails of varying difficulties wind through forests of Japanese cedar and endemic laurel. For those seeking contemplation, numerous secluded spots invite visitors to simply sit and absorb the serenity—perhaps to ponder how a place born of such violent geological forces can radiate such profound peace and harmony.

As the sun begins its descent over Sete Cidades, casting long shadows across the twin lakes, visitors often find themselves reluctant to leave this enchanted landscape. The emerald and azure twins have a way of etching themselves into memory—not just as a visual spectacle but as an emotional experience that reconnects us with the wonder of our planet. Whether you came seeking photography opportunities, hiking adventures, or simply a moment of tranquility, Sete Cidades offers a reminder that some of Earth’s most magical places aren’t fantasy but reality—geological poetry written in water, light, and volcanic stone. As you depart, carrying images of those jewel-toned waters in your mind, you’ll understand why travelers throughout history have struggled to describe this place without resorting to language usually reserved for dreams and fairytales. For in Sete Cidades, the boundary between earthly beauty and magic dissolves, leaving only wonder in its wake.

This video was taken from the “Vigia das Baleias” at Ponta dos Rosais in São Jorge. On a clear day like this one, you can see all the 5 island of the Central Group of the Azores: Graciosa, Terceira, São Jorge, Pico and Faial (wondering which island is best to visit?).

The five islands of the central group of the Azores—Faial, Pico, São Jorge, Terceira, and Graciosa—are well connected by a comprehensive ferry network operated by Atlânticoline, making island-hopping a convenient and scenic option for travelers.

The Triangle Islands: Year-Round Connections

The three closest islands—Faial, Pico, and São Jorge—form what’s known as the “Triangle” and enjoy the most frequent ferry service. The Blue Line operates multiple times daily between Horta (Faial) and Madalena (Pico), with the journey taking just 30 minutes. This route is so convenient that many residents actually commute between the two islands for work.

The Green Line and Orange Line also connect these triangle islands throughout the year, with the Green Line weaving between them and offering spectacular views, particularly of São Jorge’s dramatic cliffs. Journey times range from 30 minutes to about 2.5 hours depending on your route and destination.

Connecting to Terceira and Graciosa

The two more distant islands of the central group, Terceira and Graciosa, are linked through seasonal ferry services. The Purple Line operates only on Tuesdays and Saturdays from June through September, connecting the triangle islands to Praia da Vitória in Terceira.

The White Line is the most comprehensive option, running twice weekly (typically Mondays and Fridays) from June to September and connecting all five central group islands: Faial, Pico, São Jorge, Graciosa, and Terceira. This makes it particularly popular with tourists seeking to explore the entire central archipelago, though journey times can range from 20 minutes to 5 hours depending on your specific route.

Practical Considerations

Ferry travel between these islands offers an affordable and scenic alternative to flying, with opportunities to spot whales and dolphins along the way. However, services operate in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean where currents and waves can occasionally be rough, which may lead to delays or cancellations, particularly outside summer months. The triangle islands enjoy the most reliable service due to their proximity, while connections to Terceira and Graciosa are more limited to the summer season.

When the weather is nice, the sunsets on the southwest coast of Faial are nothing short of spectacular!

The Azores are a great surf destination, with several surf spots well known to the surfers community, often likened to Hawaii, with its nine volcanic islands feature pristine beach breaks, world-class reef breaks, and dreamy, long point breaks. Praia do Norte in Faial is one of them.

By Paolo Ghibaudo @ GTTA

Picture taken with drone this summer on pico Island, Azores (discover more about Pico Mountain, the highest peak in Portugal)

A picture taken on our first trip to the Azores, in 2012 (see our Angra do Heroismo travel guide). This hill captured my attention as it looks like it has big eyebrows and/or it is wearing a mask 🙂